- SPRINGFIELD M1A SOCOM CQB STORAGE IN RIFLE STOCK HOW TO
- SPRINGFIELD M1A SOCOM CQB STORAGE IN RIFLE STOCK SERIES
- SPRINGFIELD M1A SOCOM CQB STORAGE IN RIFLE STOCK CRACK
SPRINGFIELD M1A SOCOM CQB STORAGE IN RIFLE STOCK CRACK
While doing this, try to break (round) any sharp edges - you want to avoid leaving any sharp corners inside the cavity as they tend to be what are known as "stress risers" and will often be the place that a crack will originate. I use a combination of carbide and tungsten burrs with an electric handpiece for this process and it goes very quickly. You'll want to remove as much foam as possible - and preferably grind all the way down to the fiberglass (but not through it, of course). Once you have it aligned and working, you can clean the foam out the cavity at the base of the stock. It might be helpful at this point to scoop out some of the foam that makes up the core of the stock so that you can fully fit the mating surfaces together to check trigger position relative to the grip and the buttstock's angle of attachment to make sure you like it. Take your time - you can always take a little more off, but you can't put it back on. Using a belt sander, I sneak up on the final line, stopping to check how the new buttstock will mate up as I go. After this is done, I use a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade (you may hit one of the steel alignment pins in the stock) to cut shy of the line. The easiest way for me is to just lay the new stock on the old one, make sure that the comb (cheek area) is lined up, and mark the angle and placement of the mating face.
SPRINGFIELD M1A SOCOM CQB STORAGE IN RIFLE STOCK HOW TO
Once you have the new buttstock in hand, it's time to figure out how to locate it and in turn, where to cut the stock. If you plan to use optics, you will either want a different shaped buttstock, or, one with an adjustable cheek riser (see the folding stock in this Instructable). In my case, I knew I wanted to use the iron sights, so I wanted a stock that would allow me to keep the same cheek-weld as the original stock. One thing to keep in mind is whether you plan to use optics or not. After trying a few different combinations, it seemed that the stocks designed for the Mossberg 500 shotgun were a good match, so I took the plunge and ordered an ATI adjustable stock. This gave me a line drawing of the shapes to work with and kept me from being distracted by shading. I did the same with a few product images that I found online of a few pistol-grip stocks. I took a picture of the fiberglass stock with the action in place against a light background, took the image into Photoshop and then ran the "Find Edges" filter. When I originally decided to do this, I spent some time trying to find an aftermarket pistol-grip stock that seemed to have the same lines as the fiberglass stock. Various files, sandpaper (wet/dry aluminum oxide), clamps, hacksaw or sawzall, sander, etc.An electric handpiece, Foredom, or Dremel would be very helpful.Paint - Duracoat in my case, but rattle-can paint would work, too.A sculptable epoxy clay or similar (possibly fiber-filled bondo, but I like to use similar materials for better bonding).Petroleum Jelly to act as a parting compound or release agent.Fiberglass cloth or chopped fiberglass.I used the 3-hole version, not the barbed version of the tee-nut. A Tee-Nut that matches the buttstock mounting bolt you intend to use.I find the faster-setting epoxies don't seem as strong and don't seem to bond as well - just my opinion, of course. Epoxy - I use a quality 30-minute epoxy.
SPRINGFIELD M1A SOCOM CQB STORAGE IN RIFLE STOCK SERIES
I've found the aftermarket stocks for the Mossberg 500 series shotgun seem to work well and have about the right shape as well as a good "keying" surface.
Expect to pay around $20-30 for a solid candidate. Donor stock - this can be a nice one, but it's better to use a structurally sound "less pretty" one as the nice synthetics are becoming harder to find - and the less "aesthetically pleasing" ones are a lot less expensive.In this Instructable, I'll show a technique that I used to build 3 variations of a comfortable and functional stock. Depending on what materials are used, a nice stock can be built for as little as $150-$200. A while back I picked up a handful of surplus Vietnam-era synthetic stocks (1 nice one, 2 thrashed ones) with the idea of using them as a starting point, and after some experimentation, came up with a technique that I think is worth sharing. The issue for me is that while there are commercial rifle stocks out there for the M1A (Vltor, McMillan, etc), they're pretty far from what one would consider "inexpensive" - ranging in price from $500 to $900 dollars.
I also like pistol-grip stocks - mostly because I find them more comfortable for the target shooting I typically do. I'm a big fan of the M1A rifle in all it's configurations - it's accurate, fun to shoot, and reliable as an anvil (and almost as heavy - lol) - but even it can be improved.
0 kommentar(er)
